This journal is telling the story of a 7-day winter kayaking adventure my partner Scott Sinton and I undertook around Great Barrier Island, New Zealand (31 May - 7 June 2019). These words are extracted from my diary that I wrote in each day.

Happy reading x

Day 1 - The Crossing

Finally D-Day has arrived, Friday morning 31 May 2019. We are leaving on our sea kayaking expedition around Great Barrier Island (otherwise known as “Aotea” in Māori). It took us several weeks of planning and Scott almost didn’t sleep at all last night. He was too busy packing and making sure all our gear is ready and reliable.

We have 9 days ahead of us on the water and our initial plan is to circumnavigate the island. However it is looking like the weather will force us to stay on the Eastern side to shelter from the strong Westerlies forecast all week. After waking up at 5am, we drove our van full of gear to the ferry that will take us across the Hauraki Gulf to Great Barrier Island. Boarding just on time, stoked that everything fitted in the hatches. We knew it would be a rough crossing due to the strong cross shore wind but I had never imagined how seasick I would get. The ferry was rolling up and down on 2 metre + waves for four hours straight. Standing in the rain and cold shaking while emptying my stomach made hours feel like days. Definitely one of the worst experiences I’ve ever had on a boat. One silver lining was that I saw some common dolphins surfing while being sick, so it wasn’t all bad.

We arrived to Great Barrier after lunch completely exhausted. We hadn’t booked any accommodation since we had planned to start paddling, so we headed straight to the nearest place we could find. We slept all afternoon, which was so needed! Tomorrow will be another day, hopefully our first day paddling.

Day 2 - The Adventure begins

After a really good night sleep, we got a ride from our hosts to Medlands on the East side of the island. I admit I was a bit worried to start, knowing how bad the weather forecast was for the next few days. But I decided not to think about it too much and just embrace it. Once on the sand, we started packing our kayak methodically while the sky above us was becoming more and more threatening. At some point, Scott yelled “look up!” and the most incredible altocumulus clouds were forming above our heads. It was the kind of apocalyptic scene you’d always wanted to see. Threatening and beautiful at the same time, luckily the storm front avoided us.

As we started paddling, we found ourselves in very strong headwinds already, around 20 to 30 knots. After our first short battle, we stopped for lunch before continuing towards Awana. I was a bit worried because my hands were already soaked and freezing; my new gloves weren’t waterproof enough. Hopefully I’ll survive. We made good time passing the beach and the DOC (Department Of Conservation) camp. After this, we weren’t sure exactly where to camp but we knew there were some sheltered rocky bays to the North.

After a few failed landings we finally found a comfortable campsite just before dark. It was a total mission getting the kayak out of the water onto the rocks but we were happy to be done. The rain arrived just as we had finished putting up the tent. Somehow we had managed to stay dry all day!

As the rain kept on, we cooked dinner inside the tent door and it suddenly felt really cosy. When you’re camping, it doesn’t matter what you eat, as long as it’s warm it always tastes better than usual. With full stomachs, the weather calmed and the sky cleared to reveal the milky way. Great Barrier Island is a Dark Sky Sanctuary which is great news for us as photographers. After shooting astro photos for a few hours, we saw some tiny zoo plankton while rinsing the dishes in the ocean. Their shiny eyes were glowing everywhere beneath the surface. A magical first evening out in the wild.

Day 3 - A Day in the Sunshine

We woke up around 7.30am and were so happy to see some blue sky. Our backs and arms were a bit sore from the day before but we hoped our bodies would adapt. Everything was damp so we eagerly waited for the morning sun to reach our camp. At this stage I told myself: “I fear the day when it is going to be pouring with rain and we’ll have to unpack, pitch the tent and load it again..All, completely soaked”. But I know it is part of the adventure and the weather won’t cooperate all week. With the weather forecast that we have, any glimpse of sun is a blessing.

We dried everything for a few hours while having breakfast and figuring out our paddling itinerary for the day. Also, we did our first beach clean-up. One of my objectives for the trip is to document the plastic pollution on the island and to clean up as many beaches as possible. I was pleasantly surprised by the small amount of trash that we found on this beach compared to what I was expecting. The debris that we found were made up of single use plastics such as food & beverage wrappers, old pieces of rope and even a plastic chair…Needless to say I wish we hadn’t found any but in today’s world, is it still possible?

Plastic pollution is one of the biggest plagues on Earth. It is our responsibility since we created the problem in the first place. We need to start using alternatives to stop choking our land and oceans. This trip was an opportunity for me to assess and see the plastic devastation first hand. I couldn’t imagine not trying to make at least a small difference while we were in this remote and amazing coastline.

We are grateful to regularly volunteer and work with Sustainable Coastlines, a New Zealand charity run by a passionate and hard-working team whose mission is to look after NZ waterways and coastlines. They make such a measurable impact and Scott and I are inspired to clean up as many beaches as we can. I recommend you also check out Project Blue, a group of 25 young ocean lovers from New Zealand who are doing everything they can to document and fight plastic pollution. They have had huge success so far, especially educating today’s youth.

Scott and I did our best to pack as many reusable items as possible on this trip and promised to leave no trace whatsoever. We did use some resealable plastic bags to pack some food (muesli, rice, coffee) but we are making sure we keep them for future trips and reuse them for as long as possible.

The beach had changed so much from when we had arrived the night before. So we waited for the tide to come in and grab our kayak, as it was too tricky to launch on the low. We set off and paddled in some beautiful light and clear water until we left the seclusion of the bay. As we rounded the corner, the southerly hit us hard. We manoeuvred carefully as these were the most dangerous conditions that we had paddled together. After surfing downwind, we finally reached safety and a calmer ocean, with Arid island on our right and Harotonga on our left. Having sunny and glassy conditions after a tough start felt amazing. It reminded me why I do this, why I spend so much time in the outdoors and why challenges are so good, both physically and mentally.

We reached our next campsite (Harotonga) by following a lazy river that almost reaches the ocean at high tide. It was so easy to wheel our kayak out of the water onto the grass compared to the previous rocky night. The only surprise we got was that we were surrounded by sheep poo. There was nowhere that didn’t have poo. It turns out sheep are the most effective lawnmowers on the island. We managed to find a “safe” spot after a good laugh and we cooked dinner under the camp shelter. We used our ‘Grayl’ bottle for the first time, filtering water from the DOC campground for peace of mind. I’m so glad we brought it with us as we refilled all our water jugs. The water quality in New Zealand can be pretty bad in places, especially the rivers due to the intensive farming and heavy stock presence.

A resident duck started following us everywhere and seemed to enjoy biting Scotty’s legs :)

Day 4 - A Highlight

We both slept better last night. It’s only been 2 days out on our kayak and we are both feeling more efficient. Packing has got a lot faster, it feels a lot easier than on the first day. We were up at 6.30am and both ready with our cameras to shoot an amazing sunrise. After capturing a few bangers before breakfast, we left camp quickly as we had a huge day ahead. It was so cool following the river back out to sea!

Today was a blue bird day with ideal paddling conditions; what dreams are made of! Our goal was to explore Rakitu Island (Arid Island); which lies 6kms offshore. First we paddled to Cathedral Cove across the channel and stumbled upon many beautiful sea cliffs and caves. One of them had pink rock walls and was the biggest cave either of us had ever paddled through. Finally we made it to the north side and to the only easy landing on the island, Arid Cove. The arrival there was pure magic; not a boat or a person in sight with summer like conditions. Not a cloud in the sky, turquoise water; a slice of paradise to ourselves. We had a quick dip, hiked to one of the hill tops and enjoyed the views. The sensation of freedom was at its most.

Three days without any cell phone reception or any contact with the outside world and social media. I can already feel the positive effects. It’s always a tough start…Cooking, packing and loading our kayak usually takes several hours to leave camp. But there is no better feeling than the one we have during those few seconds when we are ready to go and paddle.

Scotty has really been amazing from the start. He is always helping and being supportive. His problem-solving attitude is a real asset on this trip. We are both really happy from our day today, dreamy conditions on the water and exploring new territories. Scotty has gone fishing while I work on my diary. It is almost time for us to cross back to the mainland again and find a camp for the night.

Day 5 - The Fish Master

We woke up today with sore bodies after our biggest open ocean crossing yesterday (8-9K). Not only did we achieve it in a record time but the winds were really in our favour. We paddled for a few more hours and decided to make camp on one of the last beaches before the northern most point of Great Barrier Island. In the afternoon we went fishing and I caught my very first fish ever - 44cm snapper! (50 cm counting the tail). The second one I caught was almost as big but since we had already caught dinner we threw him back. Beginner’s luck?

Scotty couldn’t believe it, we couldn’t stop laughing. I wish we had filmed this. Once again, Scotty was amazing showing me the “ropes” of fishing.

It was really special to cook fresh snapper together for dinner. It tasted like heaven thanks to the fresh lemon juice and olive oil, so glad we brought it. It was a welcome change from eating dehydrated meals for the last few days. It made me proud to be able to feed Scotty! I think i’ll enjoy fishing from now on.

The beach we camped on for the night had a very special energy. The moment we stepped onto it, I felt strange. Almost spooked. The nature was so still, the atmosphere so wild, it is hard to describe. Perhaps because we are so remote, far from any civilisation, roads, human life… After several days in the wild, I am definitely starting to tune in to nature, I am feeling really present and focusing on both of us only. It is a strange feeling but I’ve really been enjoying it. Your thoughts change, you calm down. No shower either since Saturday and I’m getting used to it.

The sand we were camping on was full of tiny bugs that were jumping under our tent. “They sound like pop-corn” I said.

Who knows what the weather is like tomorrow, our last radio forecast said something big might be on the way. Will we make it to the far northern tip?

Day 6 - The Storm

I had been half awake for a few hours already. I could hear the rain and the gusty wind slapping our tent with violence almost all night long. This morning we slept in a bit and realised just in time, that the storm was growing and the waves were much bigger than anticipated. It didn’t take us long to put on our waterproof clothes - we had to move the tent ASAP.

Waves were quickly approaching. We had pitched our tent way above the high tide line but the storm was getting really strong and we had underestimated how much surge there would be.

With sleepy eyes and empty stomachs, we rushed outside and realised it was pouring too much to move anything yet. To buy us some time, we started digging a big trench and a protective wall for our tent and kayak. My clothes got soaked pretty quick and we were forced to stay outside for almost two hours, fighting the weather, protecting our tiny house. Our wall saved our tent by just a few minutes. The waves would have washed through the front door if it hadn’t been built.

Just after 10am, the rain finally stopped. Back inside and with some warm and dry clothes on, we had breakfast and made some hot coffee. A little comforting break that seemed big at the time. Everything was soaked or damp. It was a tough morning but everything survived. This is the kind of moment we will always remember, one of those memories that stay and you laugh about.

As usual, Scotty stayed very calm even when the situation seemed to get out of control. We took advantage of a weather window to move our tent and our gear. Ironically, we found a calm and sheltered spot deep in the bush. We didn’t even need to camp on the beach in the first place!

The rest of the day was spent chilling and staying dry as we were completely stuck. The shore break was head high with even bigger waves out the back. We planned to escape for the next day, hoping the storm wouldn’t hold and keep us here for another night.

We also took advantage of our spare time to do another beach clean up. We couldn’t ignore the trash that was lying around in some corners. From a snorkelling mask to plastic bottle caps, we were very disappointed to find so many random pieces of trash in such a remote area. A sign that no place is safe…

I personally felt a bit anxious in this place. Energies were very odd, the colours very moody and dark. The whole place reminded me of a horror movie, we were greeted by two dead birds upon arrival. Also, the tree where we camped under for the first night had a big hole under it, as if we had stepped into someone’s cave or place. I felt watched, observed, I only wanted to leave. I found some comfort with a nice warm meal shared with Scotty back in our tent at night. I think I was also a bit sleep-deprived from previous short nights. Surely, I am getting used to sleeping on hard surfaces and I am feeling more disconnected from the outside world. Our detox has been working!

I fell asleep hoping for some calmer weather and smaller waves so we could pack and move on.

Day 7 - The Escape

After a relatively good night sleep, I woke up a bit anxious. I was really hoping we wouldn’t get stuck here for another day. We opened the tent to a clear blue sky! We got dressed and rushed to the beach to check the swell…Finally some smaller waves! Tangaroa (the god of the sea In Māori mythology) had heard us. We rushed back to our tent as we knew this might not last.

We packed and ate breakfast in a hurry (skipping coffee), getting ready in record time. We were really driven to leave this spot and keep on paddling. Clouds became bigger and darker just as we were about to leave. The last thing I wanted to happen right now was to be soaked by more rain and have to unload everything again to protect the gear. But the bigger challenge was the waves were still huge, bigger than anything we had launched into before. We had to time our escape perfect. We waited and watched a few sets, counting how many seconds we would have to push the boat into the water and for Scotty to hop into his hatch. I would have to paddle very fast to go over the incoming waves while Scotty steered us in the right direction.

Finally the sea appeared still and we rushed into the water. For a second I thought we wouldn’t make it, as a side wave almost flipped us. With pounding hearts in our chests… we made it. Once on the water and safe, we both laughed and screamed in excitement, holding our paddles in the air as a sign of victory.

Our next kilometers paddling turned out to be much harder than expected with headwinds gusting above 35 knots. Without being able to get an up to date weather forecast, we unfortunately had to abandon our goal of reaching the northern tip of the island, the Needles. If we had pushed on, there was a high chance we would get stuck again. We were already running out of days to make it to our ride back to Auckland. Plus, I had surgery scheduled the day after we returned so being late wasn’t an option. I decided flying back home was better than risking a bad crossing again.

We came to the conclusion that we had to turn around and head South towards the nearest road. We decided to make our end point Okiwi Campground, which was reachable that day. During the paddle we really struggled paddling against the headwinds and realised our trip wouldn’t finish today. Scotty spotted a tiny beach in front of us, sheltered against the winds at the bottom of a hill and we decided to have our lunch break there. Once on shore, it was clear to both of us that today wasn’t the day for it. The next point would be too dangerous with the winds combining with the tide and 3m swell. Another night of camping ahead of us! Luckily, we found a small flat grassy area that would fit just our tent, the only spot on the rocky beach.

We noticed the several curious cows eating near by; we had ended up on the edge of a farm.

After a short lunch we climbed up the hill and reached the top, hoping to catch a radio signal. Success: it worked. We got a weather report via Channel 1 for the next morning. This told us that we only have a few hours before noon to make it around the point and reach Okiwi. Winds are set to increase at lunch time to more than 45 knots so it doesn’t leave us much time.

Later on that afternoon, we had another go at fishing on the rocks and I caught another fish, a pig fish. It was a lot of fun but I was glad we set it free.

Day 8 - The Accomplishment

While writing this last part down, I am warm and sheltered, waiting for Scotty to come back with a rental car to pick me and our gear up at Okiwi campground.

WE MADE IT.

This is it, Friday 7 June 2019 was our last day of paddling around Great Barrier Island due to bad weather. We cut our trip short by two days but we are happy with what we achieved. We would love to attempt another circumnavigation during the summer. After a full afternoon planning our final route getting the weather forecast, checking the tides..), we made it back to civilisation. It ended up being our hardest day of paddling. It was so nice to make it back to Okiwi at high tide as we planned, as we didn’t have to drag the boat through the mud for almost a kilometer.

We are safe and sound and the feeling of happiness and achievement is immense for both of us. We are feeling proud of each other and of ourselves.

On our final day we woke up at 6am and got ready in just two hours, our most efficient packing day so far. We made it around the point easily but the swell was still big. Good that I fully trust Scotty when it comes to reading the waves. We were thankful for having a north westerly wind as if it had been southerlies like the day before, we wouldn’t have made it. After the point, we faced 25 knot side winds for an hour until we reached the surf at Okiwi bar, our only passage to the campground. We paddled strong and steady for several kms and as we got closer we weren’t sure if we would make it over the bar. “What if the waves are too big? We will have to paddle back and exit somewhere else. The road is tricky to find and a really long walk”.

As we got closer, we were stoked to see it was manageable. We made it through and even watched fun right-handers peak and race down the bar. If we had our boards, I would have loved surfing it.

Now that the hardest part was behind us, we paddled into the estuary to reach our final destination with the wind picking up to 35 knot headwinds (AGAIN). This was our last push, our last effort.

Close to exhaustion, a few meters away from the finish line I suddenly lost a lot of strength but I held on until the nose of our boat hit the sand. My hands were freezing, my gloves were soaking as usual and this last day was harder to handle than ever (TIP: make sure you test your gloves beforehand, if you are going on a big trip).

Once out of the boat, we unloaded everything and wheeled it down to the shelter, feeling so happy we were safe and done.

Our full itinerary up the east coast of Great Barrier Island

Looking back at this last week, it has been one of the most incredible and hardest outdoor experiences I have ever done. We both have learnt a lot about ourselves and our relationship. We are a good team and we survived more easily because we were together. We caught our own food, gathered rainwater, fought a storm, paddled in dangerous conditions but also knew when to stop. Proving we can survive in the wild together.

I am so grateful for this experience and to call Scotty my partner. No shower for 7 days, feeling cold and damp and worrying about the constant possibility of being trapped in pouring rain, was worth every single minute. I am feeling so far away from the city life and all things superficial.

Life in the wild without social media was the best medicine and I encourage everyone to spend as much time as you can into the outdoors, in whatever form it comes. We are both feeling exhausted and at the same time energised and motivated to plan our next adventure. I am proud of you and I am proud of us.

Thank you Babe.